Saturday, May 1, 2010

Navarre



I am torn about Navarre. The space is TINY, with almost zero decoration (less the oils and food on shelves along the walls – which I am sure is less about décor and more about space restrictions), and there are way too many tables to comfortably accommodate people. Small can have a ton of ambiance (think The Farm/Le Pigeon), but Navarre is lacking in this regard. That being said, the line of patrons waiting was consistent from the time we arrived at 7:20 until we left well after 10pm. I highly recommend getting a group of 6 together so that you can make a reservation, or you will be waiting for hours (and they have no bar to bide your time at).

Drinks:
Navarra has an impressive and affordable wine selection (two full pages), with bottles starting in the $20’s (refreshing to see) as well as dozens by the glass. One unique thing they do (and I wish more restaurants would participate in) is offer wine by the ¼ bottle and ½ bottle. Sometimes these amounts are just right, and it is always nice to have the options.

Food:
Since it is a tapas restaurant, everything is ordered to share (served in small or large size). As most of the best restaurants, the menu changes often based on seasonal availability (all produce comes from their CSA with 47th Ave Farm), so it is separated into traditional items and then specials. They hand you a checklist style menu and have you go at it. It’s a bit overwhelming deciding what to order, but luckily they offer a prix fix Chef’s Choice. I highly recommend this to get the best overall understanding of the food offerings, as well as a great value ($28!). Also worth noting is that we had a Pescatarian and Gluten-Free needs with us, and there was enough menu items to accommodate both of them. Served over several courses, the dishes were all nicely plated and in ample portions.

To start us off, we were served a plethora of hearty chunks of Ken’s Artisan bread with “grassy” olive oil for dipping…this combination has yet to disappoint and was the perfect way to begin the meal.
No menu of any sort is offered when you choose the Chef’s Choice option, and although I think the idea is fun, I do like to know what to expect on my plate or how much I will be served. Many restaurants have menus that change daily/weekly, but they are still able to provide you a list of what you will be receiving. After badgering the wait staff a few times, I finally got them to send me home with a marked up menu highlighting the items we ate throughout the night.

Here is a list of the menu items from our dinner, with an asterisk next to the winners and a ? next to the one loser:

Radishes w/French Butter
Farro w/Black Trumpet Mushrooms & Parsley
Miners Lettuce w/Pickled Carrot
Country Pork Pate* A favorite of everyone at the table – not overly creamy/heavy, perfect consistency.
Cornish Game Hen Escabetx Salad ? Way too gamey for my taste.
Crab Cakes* I think they must have caught this that morning – freshest tasting crab cakes I have had.
Cauliflower w/Spanish Paprika
Potato & Nettle Gratin
Steamed Clams* Could rival mussels from Brussels any day!
Leg of Lamb* Simply marvelous…best prepared lamb in Portland.

In true European fashion, dinner at Navarre is an event…courses were spaced so far apart at times we thought the meal was over. But then, ah yes, more goodness arrives. It was a great opportunity to spend an evening chatting with friends, drinking great local wines, and enjoying some amazing food. I am not sure exactly why, but we received a free French cheese plate (probably a mistake from the kitchen) AND our deserts were comped (maybe it was due to the long waits for the courses, but this was actually perfect for us). In any case, it was much appreciated.

Desert:
Red Velvet Cake - After seeing our neighbors order this, I knew that I must have it. Although it was good, this was not excellent, which is what I was expecting based on the amazing presentation.
Dried Fruit Tart w/mixed Nuts - Now here is where you should indulge. This was so unique and the flavors were bursting…the pear is what did it for me. It was like a turnover, only even better!
Ordered drip coffees to accompany, and they were perfectly brewed.

Service/Pricing:
Interestingly, the wait staff also has a tapas-style “sharing” format, so throughout you meal you are served by multiple people. Confusing, but it worked out just fine. Our initial server was knowledgeable about the wine menu, and helpful in going over the menu choices as well.

For price point, I have to say Navarre is a fantastic value. For two of us to have the Chef’s Choice menu and two nicer bottles of wine (desert was free) our bill was $140. Totally reasonable for this caliber of restaurant.

Navarre is spectacular cuisine…I am absolutely glad we tried it, and we had a wonderful dining experience. The dishes were delicious combinations of high-quality, locally sourced ingredients. I have to admit, however, that it pales in comparison to our beloved Toro Bravo in both food and atmosphere.

*Jayne

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